Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Why Don't You Make XXXXXX Bread or YYYYY Bread?


People ask me about gluten free bread, sourdough and whole-grain breads.  'Do you make xxxxx bread?' they ask.  I understand that everyone has their favorite or, because of a physical reaction, a preference for a particular kind of bread.

As a Micro Bakery (my term for a very limited operation as to quantity), I have to focus.  I would rather make one variety well than stab at several varieties and get mediocre results.  You see, I like to eat bread.  I don't have a problem with gluten and I don't have a taste for the different texture of sourdough breads (let alone the sour flavor).  Though I make breads for other people, if I don't like the taste of a given bread, how will I know if it is done well?   

I have a great curiosity as to how to make bread better, but as I am only one person, I can't go in all directions at the same time.  I need to focus.  

Gluten free (without wheat flour) bread is a specialty unto itself.  Different flour products are used to avoid but to re create the impact of wheat in the bread without the effects of wheat on the digestive system.  I have eaten gluten free products (tho I don't go out of my way to find them) and find them to be of a class of their own.  Maybe they are intended to replace a wheat made product - but they are different from that product.  You either like them (because you can't eat the wheat version) or you don't and you don't eat the gluten free version either.  I fully understand that even if I did try to make gluten free breads, they may not be as good as other alternatives - and so I choose to focus on my 'gluten full' varieties (where I know there are many variations as well, but where I can use my tastes for good bread).  

Sourdough - another specialty.  The 'bread maker world' refers to this as 'natural levain' or natural yeast breads.  That is where no commercial yeast is made.  My understanding is that in France, there is a country loaf that is so made, but it is not sour at all.  In fact, they say that the French believe that the American sourdough is made from rotten dough.  But, there are breads that are made with natural yeasts that are not sour.  My study tells me that the cycle of feeding the starter (or culture) and having it ready for baking on a regular basis is a large undertaking and is best suited to a high volume operation with predictable sales units.  

Here, too, there are many varieties of natural yeast breads resulting from different yeast cultures, different culture feedings and rest times as well as the result of different flours and baking practices.  It is commonly reported that one of the best breads in this country is made in the SF Bay area in a small bakery using the French country bread method but their flavor is not sour.  It is also said that they often sell out and a newcomer can try for days to buy bread before succeeding.  

Whole-grains - These are different animals, so to speak, as well.  But, my menu contains some varieties including steel cut and rolled oats and whole wheat and dark rye (whole rye).  Additionally, the double flax bread (with flax meal and flax seed) and the Lotsa Seeds (with flax, sesame, and chia seeds) are meaty breads with lots of texture and nutty flavor coming from the seeds added to a bread flour base.  But, the truth is that while the whole grain is used in these breads is whole, there is generally less than 30% of the total flour from these whole grains.  That's because when you use whole grain, it contains the bran which, when worked, cuts the gluten strands and disables the ability of gluten to hold the gasses that create bubbles in the dough and result in a lighter crumb.  That's why real 100% whole wheat bread is a challenge to eat as it is dense and heavy.  My breads with these grains are a compromise that make the goodness of these grains very palatable because they are delivered in a lighter bread.  

The County - Yes, the County has something to say about the breads I offer.  The County provides the registration under which I am able to sell breads made in my kitchen.  The CFO (Cottage Food Operation) rules require me to submit a label showing required information, including the contents of each product, for approval.  Only after approval can I sell the product.  And, no surprise, there is a fee  for review and approval of a label.  I have 12 products approved (based on 12 recipes) at this writing.

The requirement for approval in advance of sale also means that if I came across a wonderful new recipe, I need to complete the approval/fee process before I can offer it.   In fact, my favorite variety of bread is the Rosemary Thyme Artisan bread and I received approval for that.  But, a family member is making Thyme bread (the same recipe - but without the Rosemary).  So, I am trying it out.  But, if this is the best thing in the world, I am precluded from offering the bread that has already been approved - but without rosemary - until the label has been approved by the County.  In actuality, I make some test batches and then give the loaves away to my neighbors in return for their feedback. If it is a success, I will add it to my "for next submission" list and when I have several recipes or feel I have a found home run recipe, I will apply for approval of all of the items on the list.  

So, my 12 varieties approved include 6 Basic varieties - made with bread flour and some flavor input (like herbs or vegetables) and 6 Extra varieties - made with bread flour AND oats, or whole wheat, or rye or seeds.  The one oddball variety is the Serrano Pepper with Cheddar Cheese variety.  That's a specialty bread - but it is very tasty and I couldn't ignore it.  

So, as a Micro Bakery, I need to focus.  My choice is to focus on Traditional (with gluten) Breads using commercial least (though as little as possible for the variety and process).  I understand that this won't be the choice of everyone, but I hope it will be the choice of many.


I can hope that someone else will go through the approval process and make Gluten Free or Sourdough breads for this community.  

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