Monday, July 10, 2017

Bread For Sale - But Which Bread???

I see two types of breads.
Actually, there are many types of bread.  But, within the category of 'Artisanal Lean Breads', I see two types of bread.

Well, what's an Artisanal Lean Bread?
My definition is breads that have
  no oil, eggs, dairy, or other enrichment
  generally used for eating with meals, for breakfast, or to be used in sandwiches
  a 'free form' (i.e., not baked in loaf pans)
  been formed by hand
  generally been mixed by hand

Two different kinds of bread?  Yes - they are Wow Breads and Ahhh Breads

Wow Breads are those that when you taste them, you go Wow!   Those breads are of an unusual taste.  Think of that garlic rosemary bread you had on the side of your meal at the Italian restaurant.  It was soft with a crunchy crust and flavorful with the taste of rosemary and garlic.  You took a bite - and said Wow.  You wanted more.  Then you find out that there are more varieties (rosemary and thyme, hot peppers and cheese, oregano and parmesan, flax seed and meal, fig with honey or fennel seed, dried dill and onion, honey whole wheat and bread with steel cut oats) and you ask about the bread schedule as you plan your next visit to the restaurant.

These breads can be made in many varieties but the distinct attribute is that the flavor/taste comes from the added ingredients - herbs, dried vegetables and even coarse grains or added flavors from whole grain flours.

Ahhh breads are the result of great effort by the baker to draw out the flavor in the wheat flour itself.  Careful mixing and fermentation  - even grain selection for the flour(s) used in the bread - matched with higher hydration (water to flour ratio) produce a subtly flavored bread with a unique taste that is enjoyed fully with no butter or addition.  Often this bread has an open crumb (internal structure) with a glossy on the inside and a very crusty exterior.  Today, bakers that go this route often use a leavening mix that is made from a levain - or what we might call sourdough in the US - though it can have varying degrees of 'sourness' - and often is not sour at all.  The baker's unique levain management results in the unique taste of the bread made by the baker.
The Ahhh comes not only when one tastes the bread, but often that's the response when people see the loaf cut and laid open.  Like a fine wine, this bread is appreciated.  The nuances of taste come through and you enjoy the bread, the company, the rest of the meal.

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So which bread should the Cottage Food Operation Baker make for sale??  
                    Wow Bread?                   or Ahhh Bread??

Woe Nellie - let's look at other factors first.  Other Factors?  Of course.  There are always other factors.

  • "Eatability"  - What do people WANT to eat that they cannot make for themselves, that reminds them of another time in their lives (like when mom made bread and the memories of growing up), that 'hits the spot' as to taste, that fits into their schedule and menu.  While the satisfaction of the Wow breads are immediate, the subtleties of Ahhh breads are best when there is time for slow enjoyment.
  • The "When eaten factor" - When will people be eating the Bread.  Certainly the yeast breads in the Wow category are best when fresh - when actually still warm.  They have a shelf life of about 3 days, but the Wow factor declines after about 30 hours or so when it just gets to be bread, albeit with a unique flavor.   The Ahhh breads probably don't hit their peak until the bread is about 5 or 6 hours from the oven - and keep their special nature for a couple days after that.  A whole loaf can be put into a warm oven for 10-15 minutes to crisp up the crust and even if done 24 hours after coming out of the oven, it's as 'good as new'.  
  • The "Popularity" factor - In today's busy world, there are lots of people who want a taste awakener or Wow in life - bread or otherwise.  They feel that they have little time - and want that pop.   Fewer people want to sit and think about things such as the nuance flavors in the well developed dough that made the bread and the variety of textures they are encountering as they take a bite.  Some - but fewer.  
  • The Baker "Wanna" factor - This is the motivation of the baker.  Does he(she) wanna make that bread?  Does it use his/her skills?  Will their peers look at the bread and be envious?  So, in short, does the baker wanna make this bread?
  • The Baker Time Factor - the two breads have different processes - and differing levels of forgiveness in those processes.  When  bakery is 'working' the same 10 or 12 hours per day, a routine is established and that routine is done day in and day out.  But, the Micro Baker probably doesn't have a regular schedule in the kitchen.  Life gets in the way - and a rigid time schedule probably won't work.  So, a more forgiving process is better for the Micro Baker.  That leads to the Wow Bread.
  • The Ahhh breads are few - a white bread, a bread with a larger portion of whole grain (maybe some rye), maybe even a high ratio whole grain.
  • I consider focaccia and ciabatta as separate breads from either the Ahh or Wow bunches.  In fact, I have had focaccia in my rotation of Wow breads.  
Analysis of the Other Factors and Conclusion
Based on the above, I think the Wow Breads will have greater appeal to 'the masses'.  The risk of having many different varieties of Wow Breads is that some won't really prefer the variety you are making because you can't please them all, all the time.  

Does that mean that you never make Ahhh Breads?  Maybe not.  A high hydration, long fermented, big holed white bread with crispy but thin crust has it's place in a rotation of Wow Breads - but I don't think that it replaces that list.  






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